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The spectacular 2003 Leoville Poyferre exhibits a dense purple color with a touch of lightening at the edge as well as notes of creosote, barbecue smoke, jammy black currants, licorice and spice box. This intense, voluptuously textured, full-bodied St.-Julien possesses low acidity and ripe tannin. Still fresh and exuberant, it is just entering its plateau of full maturity where it should remain for 10-15+ years.
A huge, opulent wine that packs sweet, rich tannins and spicy fruit. In the midst of all this decadence, though, is a kernel of tannic dryness. This estate, long the weakest of the three Lèoville wines, is now back in top form.
"There is a perpetual tendency to categorize other people's actions and achievements by their so-called recipes. I have to disappoint you. I would say that my first recipe is the fact that I do not have a recipe. For me, everything started on my own properties. As a result of continuous observation, I decided to experiment with ideas which turned out to be improvements."
- Michel Rolland on the “Rolland Method”
Leoville Poyferre at one time was a member of the Leoville Estate which also included Leoville Las Cases and Leoville Barton. The Saint Julien estates were initially split up during the French Revolution, and again finally in 1840 when Poyferre was born. The Cuvelier family is the current owner, and operations in the cellar are closely counseled by Michael Rolland. Taking a turn for modern, with Rolland at the helm, is what really rescued the estate and resulted in some outstanding vintages in the 80’s. Can’t make money without spending it, so major renovations were made both in the cellar and in the vineyards. What is really remarkable about the estate is the absolutely reasonable pricing along with the balance in the wines, which can be attributed to the use of 75% new French oak.
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