The 2012 Clos de la Roche Cuvee Vieilles Vignes has an entrancing bouquet with scents of boysenberry jam, briary, dark plum and raspberry preserve. It is very intense and generous. The palate regains a sense of order after the explosive aromatics with firm tannins, intense black fruit laced with white pepper and a touch of balsamic, leading to a very focus, quite grippy finish with great persistency. This is an outstanding grand cru but perhaps it will be pipped by Clos Saint Denis this year?
Domaine Ponsot’s history begins in 1872 when William Ponsot purchased a wine estate in Morey-Saint-Denis and set up his home there. His major parcels of land at that time were the Clos des Monts-Luisants and Clos de la Roche. His nephew and godson, Hippolyte Ponsot, took over the domaine in 1920, and in 1932 started bottling his entire harvest at the domaine, a rarity for the time. Eventually the estate was passed down to Hippolyte’s son Jean-Marie, and later to Jean-Marie’s children, Laurent and Rose-Marie. Today, Rose-Marie Ponsot is the sole director of the company, seconded by Alexandre Abel. Unfettered by the latest fashions, Domaine Ponsot has always sought to express the richness of Burgundy terroir through natural cultivation practices. Human intervention is limited and only applied the vines that need it. The family’s long tradition of letting nature take the lead has produced vineyards that are in exceptional condition to this day.
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