In 2005 Colore was made from the three best barrels in the cellar, consisting of one each Sangiovese, Colorino and Canaiolo. Yields were a miniscule 12 hectoliters per hectare. The wine possesses perfumed aromatics that meld into a seamless palate of perfumed dark red cherries, minerals and sweet toasted oak, with a darker flavor profile than the Testamatta. This medium-bodied red offers superb poise and balance, with a long, inviting finish. It too needs bottle age to reach its fullest potential. For readers looking at the $800 price tag, that is not a typo. It does represent a completely preposterous, egregious and delusional (you get the idea) approach to pricing, especially considering that Graetz, despite his unquestioned talent, has less than a decade of history under his belt. Colore is a beautiful wine, but its intrinsic value is perhaps in the neighborhood of $80 or so. The rest of the price is simply a play on the wine`s scarcity (900 bottles produced) rather than a reflection of what is truly in the bottle. I can think of an infinite number of smarter and ultimately more rewarding ways to spend $800 dollars on wine, and my guess is Wine Advocate readers can too. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020.
“I continue to be impressed with the beautiful wines of Bibi Graetz. These are highly singular, expressive wines that merit serious consideration.”
– Antonio Galloni
Described by many as one of the most creative winemakers in all of Italy, Bibi Graetz is revolutionizing the wines of Tuscany. With no formal training and only a tiny vineyard on his parent’s property near Florence he still managed to form one of his country’s supreme cult wineries. Although Bibi doesn’t own a traditional estate, he has been able to search for preferential old vines throughout Tuscany, specifically Isola di Giglio, which is the foundation for his opulent yet sophisticated wines. He focuses on indigenous grape varieties that many other producers near him refuse to use such as Canaiolo, Colorino, Soffocone di Vinicigliata, and many more. Over time, Bibi Graetz has acquired 75 acres of vines throughout 20 small, organically farmed vineyard plots, and continues to revolutionize the way that Italian wine is thought of.
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